This petrified giant rules over the wild San Lucano valley, and its endless north ridge has attracted the best alpinists for many years. It is considered the longest route in the Dolomites – I have climbed it four times, twice with guests.
If you want to enjoy it without stress, plan a bivouac after about 20 pitches: beneath an overhanging rock surrounded by mountain pines lies a dream spot for a deluxe bivouac night – even better with a small campfire.
The climbing mostly stays below grade V. The main difficulties are route-finding and the crux pitch – once called the first grade VI in the Alps, today graded VI+.
Demands & experience

Location

Dolomite summitsCima Grande – normal route2.999 m · Sexten Dolomites
Dolomite summitsCima Ovest – normal route2.973 m · Sexten Dolomites
Dolomite summitsCima Piccola – normal route2.857 m · Sexten Dolomites
Dolomite summitsZwölferkofel – normal route3.094 m · Sexten Dolomites
Classic rock climbsPunta Frida2.792 m · Three Peaks
Classic rock climbsPreuss Tower – Preuss crackThree Peaks
Classic rock climbsNeunerspitze – Messner direttissima2.968 m · Fanes
Classic rock climbsSas dai Tamersc – Samblana & Fluch der KamineSt. Vigil in Enneberg
Classic rock climbsScotoni south-west face – Lacedelli & Fachiri2.874 m · Fanes – Lagazuoi
Classic rock climbsTofana di Rozes – south face3.225 m · Cortina d’Ampezzo
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