Standing on top of the Cima Grande di Lavaredo once in your life – for many people that is the Dolomites dream. The normal route up the south side was first climbed back in 1869 by Paul Grohmann with Franz Innerkofler and Peter Salcher, and it is still one of the finest summit climbs in the Alps. Here is how the day works and how to prepare.
The day on the mountain
We start early at the Auronzo hut at the foot of the Three Peaks. After a short approach the actual climbing begins on the south side. The route is very varied: easy climbing alternates with scrambling, ledges and gullies. The crux is the famous chimney – very manageable with the guide belaying you.
We descend the same way, partly downclimbing, partly abseiling. All in all you are out for about 7–8 hours.
How hard is it?
- Grade: III (UIAA) on the hardest moves, much of it easier
- The real challenge: route finding on a big, complex face – which is exactly why I’m there as your guide
- Fitness: you should be comfortable with a long day in the mountains
- Head: sure-footedness and a head for heights matter, as the terrain is exposed in places
Climbing experience helps but is not a must. If you have done a few via ferratas you usually bring a good foundation. I guide at most two people here; the minimum age is 12.
Gear
- Approach shoes with a grippy sole or light mountain boots
- Waterproof jacket, warm layer, gloves
- Rucksack with drinks and snacks
- Harness and helmet – if you’re missing something, I’ll sort it out
I bring everything else (rope, protection).
Best season
The season runs from June into autumn. In early summer there can still be snow in gullies and chimneys; in autumn the days are shorter, but it is often quieter with crystal-clear views. High-summer dates go quickly – it pays to ask early.
Good preparation
One or two via ferratas or a day of climbing beforehand help you get used to rock and exposure. I’m happy to combine the Cima Grande with a preparation day – just ask.
